Deep in the
forests of Cambodia’s Siem Reap province, the elegant spires of an ancient
stone city soar skyward above the sprawling complex of Angkor Archaeological
Park.
The Khmer
Empire’s various capitals thrived here from the 9th to 15th centuries, while
their rulers presided over an empire that stretched from Myanmar (Burma) to
Vietnam. Including forested areas and newly discovered “suburbs” Angkor covers
more than 400 square miles (1,000 square kilometers)—an area considerably
larger than New York City’s five boroughs.
Though just one
of hundreds of surviving temples and structures, the massive Angkor Wat is the
most famed of all Cambodia’s temples—it appears on the nation’s flag—and it is
revered for good reason. The 12th century “temple-mountain” was built as a
spiritual home for the Hindu god Vishnu. The temple is an architectural triumph
laden with artistic treasures like the bas-relief galleries that line many walls
and tell enduring tales of Cambodian history and legend.
In other parts
of Angkor such art depicts scenes of daily life—offering scholars a precious
window into the past.
One tale
Angkor’s artists and scribes did not tell, however, is why the city’s rulers
abandoned the site and resettled near modern Phnom Penh. Theories include
defeats in battle and shifting religious observances, (because the Khmer’s
Hinduism was gradually replaced by Theravada Buddhism during the 13th and 14th
centuries), but the mystery has puzzled scientists for centuries.
Angkor is as
much about water as it is about stone—the site boasts an enormous system of
artificial canals, dikes, and reservoirs, the largest of which (West Baray) is
5 miles (8 kilometers) long and 1.5 miles (2.4 kilometers) wide. These
incredible feats of engineering form an integral part of an overall site design
that remains faithful to religious symbolism. Moats, for example, simulate the
oceans surrounding Mount Meru, the home of Hindu gods.
But these
massive works also served a practical purpose by skillfully harnessing river
and rainwater to quench the thirst of some 750,000 residents in the world’s
largest preindustrial city. That water also irrigated wealth-producing crops
like rice, which served the Khmer as currency.
Some scholars
speculate that the downfall of this elaborate water system led to the end of
Angkor. A series of weak monsoons and/or the collapse of the water works due to
environmental issues, like deforestation, which drove destructive floods and
choked the system with sediment, might have tipped the movement of power toward
Phnom Penh.
Even after its
glory days had passed, Angkor remained popular with Buddhist pilgrims who
journeyed from across Southeast Asia and beyond. Today the site also draws
secular travelers—almost a million a year.
When Angkor was
named a World Heritage site in 1992 it was also added to the List of World
Heritage in Danger; the incomparable site was threatened by pillaging, plagued
by illegal excavations, and even dotted with land mines. In 1993 UNESCO
launched a major campaign to restore and safeguard Angkor. Thanks to a textbook
case of international cooperation Angkor rebounded so dramatically that it was
removed from the List of World Heritage in Danger in 2004.
UNESCO continues
to be a part of Angkor’s future, working with the Cambodian authorities to
ensure that tourism access and development do not compromise this great
cultural treasure.
How to Get There
The nearby town
of Siem Reap can be reached via good roads from Phnom Penh and buses and taxis
make the trip regularly. Those preferring to travel by boat can also make the
trip from Phnom Penh in some five or six hours—about the same travel time as by
road. The airport in Siem Reap has service to Phnom Penh and regular flights
abroad to Thailand, Singapore, Vietnam, and Laos.
How to Visit
The fast-growing
town of Siem Reap is the gateway to Angkor and is filled with lodging, dining,
and tour-package options for all budgets and inclinations. Tour buses are
available for those whose itineraries match what’s on offer—typically visits to
Angkor’s major sites. Those interested in exploring more remote and
off-the-beaten-track structures may hire cars or motorbikes with drivers and/or
guides who are also able to suggest itineraries. Tethered balloon rides offer a
unique aerial perspective from which to view the grand design of the Angkor
complex.
When to Visit
Peak tourist
season in Angkor is December and January, when rainfall is less likely and the
climate is most kind. Temperatures can soar in spring and typically peak in
April before the May/June monsoon season. Travel during the monsoon can be
uncomfortable. The post-monsoon rainy season continues until October, but rains
are sporadic and shouldn’t deter well-prepared visitors, though some remote
roads can wash out late in the rainy season.